A new fence is one of the most common garden projects in the UK, and costs vary more than most people expect — not just between fence types, but depending on ground conditions, access, and whether old fencing needs removing. Here is a straightforward guide to what you will pay, which fence type suits which situation, and what the planning rules say.
What Does Fencing Cost?
The installed cost per linear metre is the most useful figure. This includes materials (posts, rails, boards or panels, postcrete) and labour.
| Fence type | Supply cost (£/m) | Installed cost (£/m) |
|---|---|---|
| Lap panel fence (standard 1.8 m high) | £15–£25 | £40–£65 |
| Close-board (featheredge) fence | £25–£45 | £60–£90 |
| Trellis (standalone or topper) | £10–£20 | £35–£55 |
| Post-and-rail (2-rail, rural style) | £15–£25 | £45–£65 |
| Post-and-rail with wire mesh (stock fence) | £20–£35 | £50–£75 |
| Painted or galvanised metal railings | £60–£100 | £100–£160 |
| Hardwood timber fence (oak, iroko) | £50–£90 | £100–£180 |
| Composite fencing panels | £40–£70 | £90–£140 |
Prices are 2026 UK averages. Difficult access, very hard ground, or slopes add 15–30% to costs. Removal of existing fencing typically adds £10–£20/m.
Worked Example: 20 m Boundary Fence (Close-Board, 1.8 m)
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Removal of old fencing | £200–£400 |
| Concrete spur posts or new timber posts in postcrete | £300–£500 |
| Gravel boards (base protection) | £100–£150 |
| Featheredge boards and arris rails | £300–£500 |
| Labour (digging, fixing, finishing) | £400–£700 |
| Total | £1,300–£2,250 |
Fence Types: What to Choose
Close-Board (Featheredge) Fencing
The most popular garden boundary fence in the UK. Individual overlapping boards (featheredge boards) are nailed or clipped to arris rails fixed between posts. Because boards are fitted individually rather than as a factory panel, close-board fence is structurally stronger than lap panels, can be built around slopes and uneven ground, and is easier to repair (replace one board rather than a whole panel).
Close-board is almost always the better long-term investment over lap panels for a permanent boundary.
Lifespan: 20–25 years with treated timber; 8–12 years without.
Lap Panel Fencing
Factory-made overlapping-slat panels dropped between timber or concrete posts. Fast to install and cheap — the go-to choice for rental properties and temporary boundaries. The main problem is that panels act as a solid sail in high winds, and if a post rots or a panel is damaged, the whole panel must be replaced rather than individual boards.
In exposed gardens, close-board is a better investment. Panel fencing is best when cost and speed are the priority.
Concrete Posts and Gravel Boards
Timber posts embedded directly in soil are the main point of failure in any fence. Concrete posts eliminate this entirely — they last 50+ years and never rot. They cost more upfront (approximately £20–£40 per post versus £8–£15 for timber) but extend the functional life of the whole fence. Gravel boards (concrete or treated hardwood) at the base protect the bottom of timber boards from ground moisture.
If you are paying for a quality fence, specify concrete posts and gravel boards.
Post-and-Rail Fencing
Open fencing with timber rails between posts — rural-looking, good for large gardens, and much cheaper than close-board. Provides no privacy but is effective as a boundary marker and for containing children and pets. Often combined with wire mesh (stock fence or chicken wire) for animal management.
Metal Railings
Galvanised or powder-coated steel or wrought iron railings. More commonly used at front boundaries and driveways than rear gardens. Very durable (20–40 years) but expensive. Require occasional repainting (cast iron) or are maintenance-free (powder-coated steel or aluminium).
Composite Fencing
Composite fencing (wood-fibre and plastic blend, similar to composite decking) is a growing market. Maintenance-free, consistent colour, resistant to rot. Cost is significantly higher than timber but avoids the need for painting or treating. Quality varies widely — check for warranties of 15+ years and ensure boards have a capped surface for moisture resistance.
Posts: The Foundation of a Good Fence
Fence failure most commonly starts with post failure. Key rules:
- Post depth should be approximately one-third of the above-ground height plus 100 mm. A 1.8 m fence needs posts sunk to at least 700 mm, ideally 750–800 mm.
- Posts should be set in concrete (postcrete or ready-mix), not just rammed into soil.
- Timber posts should be pressure-treated to UC4 specification (for ground contact) — check the post specification, not just “treated.”
- Concrete posts eliminate rot risk entirely and are worth the extra cost on permanent boundaries.
Post spacing should not exceed 2.4–2.7 m for full-height close-board fencing; 1.83 m (6 ft) is standard for panel fencing to match panel widths.
Planning Permission Rules
In England (Planning Permission rules differ slightly in Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland):
- Rear garden fences up to 2 m high: no planning permission required (permitted development)
- Front garden or side boundary adjacent to a highway: maximum 1 m without planning permission
- Conservation areas and listed buildings: restrictions may apply — contact the local planning authority before erecting any fence
If your neighbour erects a fence that you believe breaches planning rules, contact your local planning authority. The fence responsibility (whose side it sits on) is a private legal matter — check your property deeds, which should show boundary ownership marked with a “T” symbol.
Maintenance
| Fence type | Maintenance requirement |
|---|---|
| Treated softwood | Annual or biennial fence treatment (oil or stain); £15–£30/year for materials |
| Hardwood | Oiling every 2–3 years |
| Concrete posts | None |
| Metal railings | Repainting every 5–10 years (cast iron); powder-coat is largely maintenance-free |
| Composite | Wash down annually — no staining or painting required |
A good quality timber treatment applied every two years extends fence life dramatically — from 8–12 years to 20+ years for close-board with treated posts.
Who Is Responsible for a Fence?
Property deeds should indicate boundary ownership. Where they are ambiguous:
- The convention (not a legal rule) is that the post-side faces inward and the good side faces the neighbour, but this varies.
- Maintaining a fence is the legal responsibility of the owner of the boundary.
- If a fence divides two properties with no clear ownership, both parties can agree to share cost.
Check your Land Registry title plan and any conveyance documents — the “T” marks show responsibility.
