Replacing internal doors is one of the most cost-effective ways to refresh a home. A new door immediately changes the feel of a hallway or landing, and unlike decorating, the result is physically permanent rather than something that fades or marks over two or three years.
Prices range from about £30 for a plain hollow-core flush door to upwards of £400 for a solid hardwood panelled door, with the main cost drivers being core construction, material, and whether you want glazing. Fitting adds £80–£150 per door for a carpenter — more if the frame needs adjustment or the opening is non-standard.
Door Types
Flush Doors
The simplest and cheapest option. A flush door has a flat face on both sides, typically a hardboard or MDF skin over a lightweight core. They look contemporary and clean in minimalist interiors but can feel insubstantial if the core is hollow.
Hollow-core flush: A cardboard honeycomb fills the interior. Very light, inexpensive (£30–£80), and easy to hang. The main drawback is poor sound and thermal insulation, and they’re easily damaged — a firm knock can crack the skin. Suitable for utility rooms and spaces where noise is not a concern.
Solid-core flush: The interior is filled with solid MDF, particle board, or timber. Much heavier (40–55 kg), noticeably more soundproof, and far more durable. Costs £80–£220. A worthwhile upgrade for bedrooms and bathrooms.
Panelled Doors
A panelled door has a visible frame (stiles and rails) with recessed or raised panels between. The classic 4-panel door is ubiquitous in Victorian and Edwardian terraces; 6-panel designs are common in Georgian properties.
Panelled doors are almost always solid throughout, so they offer good sound attenuation without needing to specify a solid core specifically. They suit period properties naturally but are also used in contemporary homes where a more traditional feel is wanted.
Costs range from £90–£150 for a softwood-effect moulded door (MDF skin, not real timber) to £250–£600 for a hardwood option in oak or walnut.
Glazed Doors
Any of the above door types can include glass panels, which borrow light between rooms. Useful in narrow hallways and kitchens where borrowed light makes a real difference to liveability.
Glazed panels must use safety glass (toughened or laminated) under BS EN 12150 and the Building Regulations Part N. This is non-negotiable — clear float glass in a door is a hazard and is not compliant.
Glazed doors cost roughly £20–£100 more than the equivalent solid door. Frosted, Georgian-bar and decorative leaded options are all available at premium.
Bi-fold and Sliding Doors
Where space is tight — awkward alcoves, under-stair cupboards, en-suite bathrooms — bi-fold or sliding doors allow a full opening without a swing arc. These are sold as complete kits with the track hardware included. Budget £150–£400 per door set.
Standard UK Sizes
UK internal door sizes follow a set of common standards, though older properties rarely align with them.
| Description | Width | Height |
|---|---|---|
| Standard (most common) | 762 mm (2′ 6″) | 1981 mm (6′ 6″) |
| Wide leaf | 838 mm (2′ 9″) | 1981 mm (6′ 6″) |
| Narrow | 686 mm (2′ 3″) | 1981 mm (6′ 6″) |
| Tall (modern new-build) | 762 mm | 2040 mm |
| Extra-tall | 838 mm | 2040 mm |
| Metric (contemporary) | 826 mm | 2040 mm |
Thickness is almost always 35 mm for hollow-core and 44 mm for solid-core or fire doors.
Pre-1919 properties in particular have openings that rarely match any standard dimension — heights of 2,032 mm (6′ 8″) or odd widths between 700–750 mm are typical. Always measure the existing opening accurately before ordering: measure width at top, middle and bottom (take the smallest) and height on both sides (take the smallest). A joiner can trim a timber door by up to 6 mm per edge without compromising structural integrity; beyond that you’ll need a bespoke door or a new lining.
Material Comparison
| Material | Pros | Cons | Typical cost (door only) |
|---|---|---|---|
| MDF/moulded | Stable, paints well, no grain gaps | Not repairable after damage; heavy | £30–£200 |
| Softwood (pine) | Stainable, repairable, traditional | Knots can bleed through paint | £90–£250 |
| Oak (engineered) | Attractive grain, very stable | More expensive; needs oil or lacquer | £200–£450 |
| Solid oak/hardwood | Premium look, extremely durable | Heavy; needs specialist hanging | £300–£600+ |
| Glass-reinforced | Smooth, very durable, low maintenance | Limited styles; clinical appearance | £150–£350 |
Fire Door Requirements
In England and Wales under Approved Document B of the Building Regulations, certain internal doors must be fire-rated. The most common trigger for domestic properties is a house converted into flats, or a new extension that creates a new inner hall separating habitable rooms from an escape route.
For a standard single-family house, fire doors are typically required:
- Between an integral garage and the dwelling (minimum FD30S with intumescent strips and smoke seals)
- Between floors in a house of three or more storeys
- On any room opening onto the escape route in an HMO or converted flat
See our separate guide on Fire Doors: FD30 vs FD60 for full detail on specifications and where they’re mandatory.
What Does Fitting Cost?
A straightforward door hang — existing frame and lining in good order, standard door size — takes a carpenter 1–2 hours and costs £80–£150 per door. Fitting a new door lining as well adds another hour and £40–£80. Rehanging on an existing frame (removing old door, planing new door to fit, mortising new hinges, fitting handle) costs around the same.
Budget extra for:
- New ironmongery (hinges, handle/latch, or lock): £15–£80 per door depending on finish
- Fire door fitting (requires correct intumescent strips and smoke seals): £150–£220 per door
- Non-standard openings needing frame adjustment: £50–£150 extra
- Painting both faces and edges: £40–£80 per door if hired separately
How to Choose
Match the property’s architecture. Panelled doors in a Victorian terrace look right; flush doors look like a shortcut. Conversely, ornate panelled doors in a glass-and-steel extension look incongruous.
Prioritise weight and core in bedrooms. Solid-core doors genuinely reduce noise transfer. In a family home with teenagers or light sleepers, the premium over hollow-core pays back immediately.
Consider door furniture before buying the door. Some cheaper doors don’t have a solid-timber zone for the lock mortise — check the manufacturer’s spec sheet for lock block location. If you’re fitting a deadlock, you need a continuous solid stile, not a hollow core with a 100 mm block.
Check swing direction. Building Regulations don’t prescribe internal door swing direction in most cases, but in practice doors should swing away from narrow corridors and not trap anyone in a small room. Fire-escape routes have specific requirements.
