Regrouting is one of the most transformative DIY jobs you can tackle in a weekend. Crumbling, discoloured grout makes even good-quality tiles look tired, replacing it freshens a bathroom or kitchen without touching the tiles themselves. Expect to spend £50–£150 on materials for a standard bathroom and a full day working methodically.

This guide covers the complete process: tools, preparation, grout removal, applying new grout, and finishing. Where a job warrants professional help, we say so plainly.

When Should You Regrout?

Not every grout problem needs a full regrout. Consider your options:

  • Light mould or staining, try a grout restorer pen (£5–£12) or a bleach-based spray first.
  • Cracked or crumbling lines, regrout, as cracked grout lets water behind tiles, eventually causing adhesive failure or damp.
  • Missing grout in isolated patches, spot-fill with matching grout rather than a full regrout.
  • Widespread discolouration that won’t clean, full regrout is the right call.

Check the grout lines with a screwdriver. If grout chips out easily in more than a few places, regrout everything.

Tools and Materials

ItemApproximate Cost
Oscillating multi-tool with grout blade£35–£80 (buy or hire ~£25/day)
Grout float£6–£12
Grout sponge (pack of 2)£5–£8
Grout (2 kg bag)£8–£20 depending on type
Grout sealer£8–£15
Painter’s tape£3–£5
Bucket and clean water-
Safety glasses and dust mask£5–£10

For a 2 m² shower surround, allow one 2 kg bag of grout. For a full bathroom with floor and walls, budget 4–6 kg. Unsanded grout suits joints up to 3 mm wide; sanded grout handles anything wider.

Grout colour: standard grey or off-white is hardest to keep clean. Darker grey or anthracite shows less dirt long-term. Coloured grouts are available but match carefully to existing tiles, bring a tile photo to the builders’ merchant.

Step-by-Step: How to Regrout Tiles

1. Prepare the Area

Lay dust sheets on the floor, tape any adjacent surfaces you don’t want scratched, and turn off any extractor fans temporarily to stop spreading dust. Put on safety glasses and a dust mask, grout removal generates fine silica-containing dust.

2. Remove the Old Grout

An oscillating multi-tool with a carbide grout removal blade is the safest and most efficient option. Work along each joint at an angle, keeping the tool moving. You only need to remove 2–3 mm depth, you don’t have to reach the bottom of the joint.

Alternative: a manual grout rake (£8–£15) works on softer or already-crumbled grout but is slow and hard on wrists for large areas.

Avoid angle grinders near wall tiles, the risk of chipping tile faces is high.

Vacuum out all dust and loose debris from the joints before moving on. Wipe tiles with a damp cloth and allow to dry.

3. Mix or Prepare the Grout

Ready-mixed grout in tubs is convenient for small jobs. For most bathroom regrouts, powder mixed with water gives better control of consistency. Mix to a thick peanut-butter consistency, too runny and it slumps out; too stiff and it won’t press in.

Only mix what you can apply in 20–30 minutes.

4. Apply the Grout

Load your grout float and press grout diagonally across the tile joints, working in 0.5 m² sections. Push the float firmly across joints at 45° to pack grout in fully. Go back over the same area in the opposite diagonal direction to fill any voids.

Scrape excess off tile faces with the float held nearly flat.

5. Clean Off and Finish

After 10–20 minutes (check the manufacturer’s instructions, faster in warm dry conditions), wipe tiles with a barely damp sponge in circular motions. Rinse the sponge constantly. You’re aiming to remove surface grout without pulling from the joints.

Allow a further 30–60 minutes, then buff with a dry cloth to remove the haze that develops as grout cures.

Leave to cure for at least 24 hours before exposing to moisture. Most standard cement-based grouts reach full cure in 72 hours.

6. Seal the Grout

Apply a penetrating grout sealer once cured. This is especially important in shower enclosures. One coat is sufficient for most products, work along each joint with a small brush or applicator bottle, wipe excess off tiles immediately, and allow to dry per the manufacturer’s guidance.

Resealing every 2–3 years extends the life of light-coloured grout considerably.

Silicone vs Grout at Internal Corners

Never use rigid cement grout at internal corners (where walls meet each other, or where wall meets floor or bath). These joints move slightly with building movement and thermal expansion, grout will crack within months. Use silicone mastic instead: flexible, waterproof, and available in colours to match your grout. Remove old silicone with a Stanley knife and specialist silicone remover (£6–£10) before applying fresh.

Cost to Hire a Tiler

If the area is large, the tiles are delicate (cracked or thin), or you simply don’t want the dust, a tiler will charge:

JobTypical Cost (2026)
Regrout bathroom (walls only)£150–£300
Regrout bathroom (walls + floor)£250–£450
Regrout shower enclosure£100–£200
Replace silicone + spot regrout£80–£160

Day rates for tilers run £200–£300 per day in London, £150–£220 outside the South East. Most bathroom regrouts take half a day to a full day.1

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Not removing enough old grout, applying new grout on top of unstable old grout means it cracks again quickly.
  • Mixing too much at once, grout begins to set in the bucket; mixed-over grout becomes lumpy and hard to work.
  • Letting the surface haze dry too long, grout haze left more than a few hours can be very difficult to remove without acid cleaner.
  • Using the wrong grout width, always check tile joint width before buying; using sanded grout in a 2 mm joint can scratch polished tiles.
  • Skipping the sealer, unsealed grout in wet areas stains and grows mould significantly faster.

Building Regulations

Regrouting is maintenance work and does not require Building Regulations approval or planning permission. However, if you are regrout tiles around an electric shower, ensure the shower unit itself complies with Part P, only a qualified electrician should touch electrical components near the shower.2

Regrouting is a satisfying job with a big visual payoff. Work methodically, don’t rush the cleaning stage, and the results will last a decade or more with basic maintenance.

References (2)

Figures in this note were checked against the sources below on 14 September 2026. Superscript numbers in the text point to them. Every source the site cites, by topic.

  1. 1costvery strongHomes and Communities Agency, a government page.RN-IJYN87A price, true at 2026-07. The GOV.UK publication page for the Homes and Communities Agency guidance on dereliction, demolition and remediation costs, prepared with Ove Arup and Partners. Held for its regional adjustment factors, which are what the register uses it for: the multipliers that take a national construction rate to a region. It is not a source of current prices, and the rates in the guidance itself are of its own date.
  2. 2technicalvery strongMinistry of Housing, Communities and Local Government.RN-JYJ3I5The document that decides what electrical work a homeowner may legally do themselves, and the exact list of notifiable jobs. Regulation 12(6A), reproduced at paragraph 2.5, makes only three things notifiable: the installation of a new circuit, the replacement of a consumer unit, and any addition or alteration to existing circuits in a special location. Regulation 12(9) defines special location as, in a room containing a bath or shower, the zone extending vertically from finished floor level to 2.25 metres (or the shower head position if higher) and horizontally 600mm from the edge of the bath tub or shower tray. Paragraph 2.7 states that all other electrical installation work is not notifiable, namely additions and alterations to existing installations outside special locations, and replacements, repairs and maintenance anywhere. Paragraph 2.8 gives worked examples: a built-in cooker is not notifiable unless a new cooker circuit is needed, and connecting an electric gate or garage door to an existing isolator is not notifiable but running a new circuit from the consumer unit to that isolator is. Paragraph 2.2 confirms Part P reaches outdoor work including fixed garden lighting, pond pumps and outbuildings such as sheds, detached garages and domestic greenhouses. Notifiable work must be certified by self-certification by a registered competent person, third-party certification, or a building control body (paragraph 3.1), with the compliance certificate issued within 30 days (paragraph 3.4). Note that Approved Document P is a source of guidance rather than a ban: non-notifiable work still has to comply with BS 7671.
  1. Guidance on dereliction, demolition and remediation costs, regional adjustment factors, Homes and Communities Agency with Ove Arup and Partners, accessed 21 September 2026. Priced at 2026-07, so no calibration is needed. gov.uk

  2. Approved Document P, Electrical safety: Dwellings, 2013 edition incorporating 2010 and 2013 amendments, Ministry of Housing, Communities and Local Government, accessed 14 September 2026. assets.publishing.service.gov.uk